Just back from Italy with wines from the Marche (“MAR-kay”) region located on the eastern side of central Italy, on the Adriatic coast, I returned to California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.
I brought two different bottles of Verdicchio from Tenuta dell’Ugolino. Verdicchio is a popular white wine in Italy but is not well known outside the country. I also brought two other little known Italian varietals, from the Madonnabruna winery, one called Passerina and another called Pecorino (which is not to be confused with sheep’s milk cheese!)
Dan Berger says that there are a lot of Italian white wines that are all delicious, and quite different among them. Italy is known for reds. They have been making wine for so long, yet in the past, some of their white wines did not travel well and did not have a high profile on the export market. The Italians liked to use concrete vats, for fermentation, which can’t control temperature. Now they use stainless steel. They taste a Verdicchio wine, which is a grape whose name means “green” since its skins are quite green. Dan says this wine needed stainless steel to make a wine that is exportable. This is the most popular white wine in Italy and it’s fabulous. There is no such thing as Chardonnay in Italy (there is a little –ndr) but Verdicchio is everywhere. The winemaker produces two Verdicchio wines, one from about 1200 feet elevation, so cold nights and warm days. Dan says it is a fresh, light, fruity wine, and is delicious. Only in the last decades are the Italian whites this good. There is also one called Passerina, and yet another called Peccorino, (also the name of sheep’s milk cheese).
Steve asks me about Prosecco. There is a lot of Prosecco made in the northeast, but the best is DOCG from Valdobbiadene. Dan says that the Italian Prosecco producers produce their wine fast, to compete with the Spanish Cava, as an alternative to more expensive French or Italian sparkling wines.
These wines are available now on my website.
Listen to the full episode here:
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Ornella Molon and Loris Traverso joined me on the radio with hosts Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Ornella Molon and her husband, Giancarlo Traverso are two of our producers in the Veneto and Friuli regions of Italy.
Loris explained how his parents started in the wine business in 1982. Neither his father nor his mother had a background in wine. When his grandparents gave them a vineyard when they were married in 1977, they started making wine, first for friends and then professionally. When they registered the winery as a business in 1982 at the Chamber of Commerce in Treviso, it was the first time that a woman was put in charge of the company. People were skeptical of a woman in that role, but Ornella has had great succeess and in Loris’ words, “My mom would say that she had to prove herself at the winery.” She says it was hard but it was good because she had to prove herself to everyone. Her advice to other women in the wine business is, “keep fighting, show who you are, and show everyone your value.”
They are located in Treviso, a small city about 30 minutes from the city of Venice, in the Veneto region. Their villa and cantina, centuries ago, was the summer home of the Doge of Venice (English pronunciation is “dodj” and the Italian pronunciation is “DO-jeh”).
Dan agrees with me that it is the small producers in Italy make these very fine wines. The larger producers in Italy are the ones who supply American supermarkets and those wines are nothing like these. Dan Berger explained that American supermarkets do not stock the kinds of wine that we import. Our wines are in some local restaurants (Riviera, Franchetti's, and Ca’ Bianca) and at Oliver’s Markets. They are also at Bottle Barn.
We first tasted a Rosato, which is Italian for Rosé. It is a 2017 and has light bubbles. This Rosato is made from Cabernet Franc, which is a very common varietal in northeastern Italy. It is very dry and has very thin bubbles. Dan explained that you can taste the wine with the bubbles, then wait a while and the bubbles will go away, the wine is equally interesting but different.
The next wine is their newest release, a 2017 Pinot Grigio from their second label and cantina, Vigna Traverso in Friuli (in northeast Italy next to Slovenia). Steve asked Dan how this Italian Pinot Grigio differs from the ones from California. Dan says that here, we start with much riper grapes, so we get more "florality" and are more alluring in the aroma department. However they have less acidity. Then there are two Italian styles, mass production and also cold climate small production. This is one of those cold climate wines that would go well with food.
Loris told about the vineyard. Ponca is the name of the kind of soil, called marl in English. They do not use any barrels here. They only use French oak for their red wines. Loris also explained that his mother and father each have a vineyard and winery. His father found and acquired a winery in the Friuli region in the early 1990s. They produce about 8000 cases per year, which is a fairly small production.
The next wine is a Raboso which is a unique variety indigenous to the Veneto in the area around the Piave River, where their cantina and villa are located. This is a 2012 vintage. It has strong acidity and it would go well with anything in a red sauce. It is hard to compare this to any kind of American wine. It was known as the traveling wine. Before refrigeration, the wine would last in the casks on long voyages.Ornella described Raboso as a varietal unique to the Piave region of the Veneto, which carries with it the history of the territory and its people. It is a very late ripening grape and is the last to be harvested every year. It makes wines of great distinction.
Loris added that Raboso never was affected by phylloxera, the plants are very strong. The skins are thick and crunchy, so they are the last ones that mature and they are the last of the harvest.
Listen to the complete episode here:
Thanks to Chris DiMatteo for providing content and technical assistance.
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The Irpinia district of Avellino has three DOCG appellations named for its respective commune- Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino, and Greco di Tufo. The unique terroir of each creates distinctly different cultivation zones for these varieties. We had our sights on two of the wines this trip—the big red Taurasi, which is crafted from 100% Aglianico, and the well-known white Greco di Tufo. There are also 14 protected designations of origin, DOCs. Two wines from these appellations were also on our wish list—the red Irpinia Agliancio and an elegant white known as Falanghina.
We found what we were looking for in Montemiletto, a town and commune in the Avellino province named for its ancient historical significance of once being the base of a Roman army, hence its name "mountain militia". The Norman castle of Leonessa stands today on the highest point of the town center.
(Castello Leonessa in Montemiletto)
Since ancient times, families in the commune grew Irpinia vines and produced wine for personal use. I always look to the local experts for recommendations on producers, and who best to offer an opinion on the finest producers in the commune than the town elders who can be found on park bench in the historic center of town, the Centro, just below Castello Leonessa.
(My panel of experts in the Centro of Montemiletto)
Following self-introductions and a riotous discussion about my search for the finest wines in the area, I left this meeting with a unanimous endorsement of the De Santis Family at Macchie Santa Maria. This was very fortunate since I already had a meeting arranged with the family for later that afternoon. Macchie Santa Maria is an artisan, family winery steeped in the rich traditions and history of Montemiletto, where for generations, they have cultivated the native varietal vines to produce wines for personal consumption. Today, winemaker Oreste De Santis draws from the experience of three generations to craft Irpinia wines that display the best characteristics of these local varietals.
So, what should you expect from the wines of Campania? Not surprisingly, the local winemakers consistently pointed to the unique and diverse soils of this area as a major determinant of the wine profiles. These characteristics were determined nearly two thousand years ago when Monte Vesuvio blanketed the soils rich in clay with volcanic ash (tuff) creating a type of clay-tuffa. The roots of the vines must run deep in search of water. The mediterranean climate provides for warm days and cool nights. And, at an elevation of 400-500 meters, snow commonly blankets the dormant vines in the winter months. It is not unusual to find Aglianico vines 200 years old and still used in production.
("Old vines of Aglianico and clay-tufa soil in vineyards of Nativ Cantina)
Look for Greco di Tufo to show an intense straw yellow, almost gold, color in the glass, distinct almond notes, and a fresh 'minerality' on the finish. Falanghina will show high acidity giving it a crisp finish and notes of ripe fruits and wildflowers. The big red, Aglianico, expresses bold tannins, savory notes, complex layers of dark fruits, and a long finish. These are wines that when young can be tannic, brash and irreverant; however when handled and properly refined, Taurasi earns its reputation as the "Barolo of the South" and provides a uniquely rich, smooth and complex wine experience.
(Aglianico vineyards in the foreground, Commune of Taurasi in the background)
]]>Traditional California wine labels prominently place the variety, e.g. Zinfandel, in a grand font where your eyes can instantly lock on. Add the winery name, vintage, perhaps the appellation, and you essentially have a complete brand label. As California winemakers have begun to embrace blending, the varietal name has been replaced with a provocative “fanciful name”, and the labels have become less recognizable.
So what makes old world wine labels so intimidating for some? Old World (France, Italy) have tightly controlled “classifications” that dictate labeling requirements. Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino di Nobile Montepulciano, Valpolicella…. all are highly recognizable terms by enthusiasts with experienced palates in Italian wines. And, the names are displayed prominently, and proudly, on the brand labels. If you’re not familiar with these wines, you won’t realize that these terms are names of the classified districts and define the wines. For example, Barolo, the King of Wines and the Wine of Kings, is the famous district in the Piemonte region where these wines originate. Barolo wines are some of the most reknown red wines of Italy, and often most expensive. They are crafted only with 100% Nebbiolo grapes from the district; yet, nowhere on the label will you find the varietal “Nebbiolo”. You just have to know that is the varietal for Barolo wines. Similarly, Barbaresco (Nebbiolo), Brunello di Montalcino (Sangiovese), Vino di Nobile Montepulciano (Sangiovese), and Valpolicella (blend of ancient varietals) are proudly flying the designations of their famous districts and not the varietals. And that’s mostly true, but not always. For example, Barbera d’Alba is named for the varietal grape—Barbera. In this case it carries the appellation designation as well so you don’t confuse it with its neighbor Barbera d’Asti. Taste the two wines side-by-side and the differences will be permanently etched on your palate, as they have strikingly different characteristics. Classified wine labels frequently contain additional information such as the vineyard designation, or cru, and whether it has been sufficiently aged to carry the “reserve” designation.
Let’s take a closer look at a label and we’ll translate. Corrado De Anglis Corvi produces a reserve big red, Montepulciano, from the Abuzzo region in the classified district of Colline Teramane. Corrado has also given this wine a “fanciful” name, Elévito, in memory of his parents.
Montepulicano is commonly confused with another Italian wine—Vino di Nobile Montepulciano. Why the confusion? There is beautiful medieval town in Tuscany by the same name as this varietal that is grown extensively in the Abruzzo region; however this town if famous for another big red, Vino di Nobile Montepulciano comprised with 100% Sangiovese fruit. Confused yet?
Recall that the Italian wine classification scheme has four tiers. The top two tiers of control are DOCG-Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, and DOC-Denominazione di Origine Controllata. As you experience wines from the lower tiers, IGT- IndicazioneGeografica Tipica, and VDT-Vino di Tavola (aka table wine), labeling requirements are relaxed and you will notice a great deal less information included on the labels.
American wine enthusiasts have eyes trained to the familiar --Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc. Much of the mystery in Old World wine labels comes down to a lack of familiarity with the hundreds of varietals grown outside the U.S.. It’s a big, bold wine world out there; so don’t pass up any opportunity to experience a new wine. You don’t recognize the label? Then pour a glass and get to know a new varietal. Cin!
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Indeed, it is early to come to any conclusions about the 2015 wines, but it is not too early to start building anticipation for what appears to be an exceptional vintage. In the meantime, the 2010 vintages are showing exceptional qualities, and many of our favorites have already been arriving. The 2010 Le Marognole Amarone is showing to be a very big vintage that will only continue to improve with a few more years of age. The 2010 Cantalici Chianti Classico Baruffo Riserva is one of the finest Chianti Classico wines available. Internationally known wine journalist Dan Berger rated Carlo’s Classico wine as “exceptional”. The 2010 Poggio Apricale Brunello di Montalcino from Luca Brunelli just arrived this past week. Luca earned a 93 point rating from Wine Spectator for his 2010 Brunello's from his Marotoccia farm. Fabio Sobrero’s 2010 Barolo “Ciabot Tanasio” (WS 92, WE 93) recently arrived and is already showing outstanding complexity and a structure that make it a wine for aging as well. Fabio’s 2010 Barolo Pernanno Riserva is still bottle aging and will not be released until December 2016. I barrel tasted with Flavio in March, and it was already showing qualities similar to the great vintage of 2006.
So we will have to wait to sample the first wines of the 2015 vintage. The 2015 Chianti Classico should be released this time next year, and the riserva six months later. In the meantime, there are fabulous 2010 vintages waiting to find a place on your table and in your wine glass.
Fall in the Langhe, Piemonte
Photo shared from Ristorante Le Torri, Castiglione Falletto
]]>I have to thank Luisella Chiola at Azienda Agricola Fontanabianca for introducing me to old world whites with their 2012 Langhe Arneis. I was immediately drawn to its pale yellow hues in the glass. Its floral nose was inviting, and its soft, smooth mouthfeel left a richly complex finish of fresh fruit on the palate. This was like no other white I had ever tasted! And, so it began, my awakening to old world whites.
Arneis is grown primarily in the Piemonte region. It was called Arnesio at the beginning of the 20th century. The name eventually changed to Arneis. In the Piemontese dialect, the word arneis is also used to describe a “rascally” individual, someone with whom it is difficult to get along.
The following year I was introduced to Trebbiano, while exploring the Abruzzo hills near Ascoli Piceno. Corrado De Angelis Corvi poured a 2012 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo “Fonte Ravillino” into my glass and my palate was bathed in this liquid gold nectar that stimulated all the senses. Again, it was a beautiful expression of the unique terroir of its birthplace, the Colline Teramane district of the Abruzzo.
Trebbiano is a large family of whites that frequently takes the name of its region of origin. It is the “most planted” white varietal in Italy (source: Italian Wine Central, 2010 data).
My journey continued with the whites of Friuli-Venezia Giulia; and, each time, I was met with luscious varietals that delivered complex aromas and tastes that I had not found in new world whites. Pinot Grigio is perhaps the most widely imported Italian white to the states. Arguably, you will find the most interesting Pinot Grigio from the small, artisan producers of Friuli and Alto Adige regions. Here is a great example of a varietal that will deliver a tremendous range of aromas and flavors depending on the local terroir. Igor Erzetic at Azienda Agricola Branko in the Collio district introduced me to a classic 2013 Pinot Grigio from this small valley that neighbors the Slovenian border. This is a fruit forward white with subtle aromas of sundried hay, walnut, and stone fruits. It delivers a warm plush mouthfeel with discreet acidity to provide a clean, pleasing finish. And, just a few kilometers south in the neighboring Colli Orientali, Stefano Traverso’s 2013 Vigna Traverso Pinot Grigio delivered an equally fabulous but very different tasting experience. This is a complex, well-balanced white that delivers a classical, old world Pinot Grigio experience to your palate—floral aromas, slightly bitter but refreshing and pleasing earthy finish.
Pinot Grigio: The variety was originally imported from the Burgundy region of France where it is known as Pinot Gris. It is widely found in Northern Italy in Lombardy, Veneto, Friuli, Trentino, and Aldo Adige regions. The color of the clusters can vary from bluish-gray to yellow.
The northern most wine regions of Italy—Trentino Aldo Adige, Friuli-Venezia Giulia—are world renown for the quality and variety of white wines. One of the most well known and widely available in these regions is Friulano (also known as Tocai Friulano). Indeed, I found it offered in every trattoria I visited in the Friuli. Igor’s 2013 Collio Friulano delivers all the unique characteristics this varietal has to offer—vegetal aromas with hints of bitter almonds and refreshing acidity on the finish. I dare anyone to find a similar varietal in the new world.
The diversity and number of Italian whites is remarkable and possibly overwhelming. Ian D’Agata lists over 80 white varietals in his book titled Native Wine Grapes of Italy (University of California Press). For those wine enthusiasts who are developing their bucket list, consider adding the tasting of all 80 native Italians to your list. You will need to plan extensive travel through the Italian wine regions to find them; but, in the meantime, there is a great tasting experience to be found with the few that are available here. You will find depth of character, body (yes, even in whites), and complexity that are frequently missing from new world whites. Don’t misunderstand me. I still love the reds as well; and there is always be a place for reds in my cellar. Nothing goes better with roasted red meats or a bolognese sauce than a red. So with all due respect to the reds, I have come to appreciate the diversity and complexity that the old world whites offer. To all of the members of the “only red” club, there is a time for old world white wines.
The rolling hills of the DOC Collio are protected by the Julian Alps to the north and bathed in mild Adriatic winds from the south. This half-moon shaped area of land marks Italy’s farthest outlier before entering the neighboring Slovenia. The soil of stratified marls and sandstones of Eocene orgin (ponca), along with the climate, create wines of distinctive minerality and character. The majority of this area is planted in white varietals, although a small quantity of reds can be found.
Wine connects us! And, that was certainly the case for our search for a great white from the Collio. An Italian winemaker living in Santa Rosa, Massimiliano Buiani, suggested I meet a colleague, a friend, his best man from his wedding, who is an artisan winemaker in the Collio. And so, on a warm October afternoon, we made the short 15-minute drive from the medieval village of Cormons, through the narrow, twisting roads that trail the lush rolling hills and vineyards, to Azienda Agricola Branko, near Zegla, where we met owner and winemaker Igor Erzetic. Igor’s vineyards are literally a stones throw from the Slovenian border. Igor’s small production facility, although small, shows all the signs of an artisan who is obsessed with perfection. After a tour of his vineyards and cellar, it was time to sit down and taste. Igor makes four single varietal whites—Pinot Grigio, Friulano, Chardonnay, and Sauvginon- a white blend, and a red blend.
All of the characteristics we had heard used to describe the whites of the Collio—floral aromas, discreet acidity, flavorful, crisp finishes—we found in Igor’s wines, and we are excited to share them with out clients. Enjoy!
2013 Branko Collio Pinot Grigio
Region: Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Zone: Collio
Varietal: Pinot Grigio
Style: Dry White, Medium Body
Handcrafted from 100% estate grown fruit, this classic white appears pale yellow in the glass and delivers intense aromas of green apples and peach, and a crisp, clean mineral finish to the palate.
2013 Branko Collio Friulano
Region: Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Zone: Collio
Varietal: Friulano (Tocai)
Style: Dry White, Medium Body
Igor brings out the best unique expressions of this native varietal with its characteristic aromas of bitter almonds, melon and stone fruits. The wine delivers a fine balance of fresh fruit, crisp acidity and slightly mineral finish.
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We are very proud to welcome 4 new producers (Poggio Apricale, Cantalici, Ornella Molon, and Vigna Traverso) to our family along with their exceptional wines. These new wines represent classic native Italian varietals from their home regions of Tuscany (Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico) and Friuli Venezia Giulia (Pinot Grigio, Friulano, and Schioppettino).
We drove and even walked the backroads of these beautiful regions in our search for these wines; and these were selected because they are exceptional representatives of the native varietals from their districts. The wines will be available for order mid-December, so look for an announcement!
2011 Chianti Classico “Baruffo” DOCG
Region: Tuscany Zone: Chianti Classico
Varietal: Sangiovese Style: Dry Red, Full Body
Aged 12 months in French oak, this classic Chianti shows intense ruby and violet colors in the glass with aromas of cherries and fresh fruit with hints of vanilla and chocolate. The wine delivers generous fruity mouth feel with well-balanced tannins and acidity. $27.99
2010 Chianti Classico “Baruffo” Riserva DOCG
Region: Tuscany Zone: Chianti Classico
Varietal: Sangiovese Style: Dry Red, Full Body
Aged 18 months in French oak, this “reserve” shows a deep ruby and garnet color in the glass. The nose delivers hints of berries, ripe plums, spices, tobacco and chocolate then lands on the palate with soft tannins, generous fruit and a persistent finish. $35.99
2011 Super Tuscan “Tangano” IGT
Region: Tuscany
Zone: Chianti Classico
Varietal: Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet
Style: Dry Red, Full Body
Aged 18 months in French oak, this Tuscan blend shows deep ruby and garnet color in the glass. The nose delivers intense aromas of ripe plum and black fruits then lands on the palate with rich, spicy fruits and a long finish. $40.99
2012 Rosso Di Montalcino DOC
Region: Tuscany Zone: Montalcino
Varietal: Sangiovese Style: Dry Red, Full Body
This little brother of Brunello is a distinctive full-bodied red the delivers intense black cherry fruit on the palate with hints of vanilla and spice. $27.99
2009 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
Region: Tuscany Zone: Montalcino
Varietal: Sangiovese Style: Dry Red, Full Body
Aged 36 months in Slovenian botte and French barriques, this classic Brunello di Montalcino is simply elegant. The wine delivers aromas of black cherries, wild berries, and vanilla to the nose and concentrated, complex black preserves in the mouth. The tannins are soft and balanced. $49.99
2004 & 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG
Region: Tuscany Zone: Montalcino
Varietal: Sangiovese Style: Dry Red, Full Body
Aged 42 months in Slovenian botte and French bariques, these “reserves” are extraordinary. The long aging process give birth to a classic and elegant Brunello that is full of intense aromas on the nose, a huge, soft mouth-feel of concentrated fruit, and an intensely complex finish. This is a wine with long aging potential.
2013 Pinot Grigio Venezia DOC
Region: Friuli Zone: Venezia
Varietal: Pinot Grigio Style: Dry White
This balanced, well-structured white delivers aromas of clean, fresh fruit on the nose, then crisp, citrus notes on the palate with a clean finish. $16.99
2013 Pinot Grigio Colli Orientali DOC
Region: Friuli Zone: Colli Orientali
Varietal: Pinot Grigio Style: Dry White
This golden yellow Pinot Grigio is from the famed Colli Orientali zone world renown for Pinot Grigio. The wine delivers aromas of pear and apple on the nose, a crisp and clean mouth feel with hints of citrus, pear and golden apples. $21.99
2010 Schioppettino DOC
Region: Friuli Zone: Colli Orientali
Varietal: Schioppettino Style: Dry Red, Full Body
This unique, native red delivers spicy aromas of black berries on the nose, and intensely complex hints of black currants and black pepper on the palate—distinctively unique. $26.99
]]>Contact me if you need a recommendation for a specific pairing. On behalf of our family, and our Italian family producers…Buona Festa and Cin Cin!
If you are serving…We recommend pairing with…
Aperitifs and Appetizers (Aperitivi, Antipasti)
Dry cheeses (pecorino, fontina, romano), Shrimp, or Fish
2012 Zucchetto Prosecco Brut Puro-Fol DOCG
2012 De Angelis Corvi Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC
2013 Vigna Traverso Pinot Grigio DOC
Fruit Cocktail or Ambrosia
2012 Sobrero Moscato d’Asti DOCG
First Course (Primo)
Soups or Green Salads
2013 Fontanabianca Langhe Arneis DOC
2012 De Angelis Corvi Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC
2013 Vigna Traverso Pinot Grigio DOC
Pasta Dishes
2012 Le Marognole Valpolicella Classico DOC
2010 Fontanabianca Barbera d’Alba DOC
2012 Sobrero Dolcetto d’Alba DOC
Second Course (Secondo)
Roast Turkey or Duck
2009 Fontanabianca Barbaresco “Bordini” DOCG
Lamb, Pork, or Veal
2010 Fontanabianca Barbera d’Alba DOC, or
2007 Sobrero Barolo “Pernanno” DOCG
Roast Beef, or Prime Rib Roast
2008 Le Marognole Amarone “CampoRocco” DOC, or
2008 De Angelis Corvi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo “Elèvito” DOCG, or
2006 Sobrero Barolo “Pernanno” DOCG
2011 Vigna Traverso Schioppettino DOC
Fruit & Cheese (Formaggi e Frutta)
2012 Zucchetto Prosecco Brut “Puro-Fol” DOCG, or
2012 Zucchetto Prosecco Extra Dry DOCG
Dessert (Dolce)
Chocolate anything!
2009 Le Marognole Valpolicella Recioto DOC
Pumpkin, Fruit Pies, or Cakes
]]>The reputation of Brunello wines dates back to the 16th century. By the late 1800’s Brunello wines had gained international attention, even competing with the well-known French red wines from Bordeaux. Brunello di Montalcino wines were one of the first to receive official designation as a DOC wine, “Denominazione di Origine e Controllata” (meaning the origin is controlled) in 1966; and, in 1980, was the first Italian wine to be granted the highest quality designation, DOCG, (controlled and guaranteed). You can find the complete history of Brunello di Montalcino at the Consorzio Del Vino Brunello di Montalcino. It’s this rich history of making world-renowned wines that allows these wines to command some of the highest prices for all Italian wines.
Standing in front of the Fortezza (Fortress) di Montalcino, built in 1361, and overlooking the vineyards blanketing the steep hillsides you cannot avoid being overwhelmed with the grandeur and history of this district. If you happen to be standing here during the Middle Ages, you would have been concerned about attacks from Siena or Florence; and while I felt fairly secure from Senese attacks this week, the task of finding one exquisite Brunello from the 209 members of the Consorzio Del Vino Brunello di Montalcino that span the 24,000 hectares covering the township of Montalcino seemed formidable. Our five merchant team was up for the challenge, and thanks to Deb’s planning, we set up an exceptional base camp at Castel Brunello, located in the quaint village of Sant’ Angelo in Colle, and overlooking the Tuscan valleys below.
For five days the merchants drove the narrow paved and gravel roads throughout the township meeting with small, family producers with a deep, rich heritage of growing Sangiovese grapes and producing fine Brunello wines. Each family we met consistently greeted us with warmth and hospitality. They wore their love for their land, vineyards and family on their sleeves; and while most already had exclusive contracts with importers, they were proud and excited to share their wines with us.
We met Luca Brunelli at Vinitaly in Verona in April, and we were immediately impressed with the quality of his Montalcino wines. Luca’s winery, Poggio Apricale, is located just a few hundred yards from the Fortezza on a panoramic hillside overlooking the Ombrone valley and river. We spent a wonderful afternoon with Luca, tasting his wines, touring his vineyards, and learning about his deep family heritage in Montalcino. Luca’s mother and father, Anna Sarini and Mauro Brunelli, are both from farming families with deep roots in Montalcino. In 1964, the Brunelli family moved to Martoccia, a small farm of about 3 hectares near the Fortezza. Today, son, Luca, and Maura combine their love of their land and respect for tradition in their care for their vineyards. Their passion and enthusiasm was expressed in every glass we tasted.
Our visit with Luca culminated in an unforgettable lunch he hosted in the home he was born, over homemade pasta and wild boar that was hunted and smoked by his father, Maura. We found our Brunello! Look for Luca’s Poggio Apricale wines to be available to our clients in November.
Drive 70 km north of Montalcino and you arrive in Gaiole in Chianti, the heart of the Chianti Classico district. Statues, portraits, and pictures of the Gallo Nero (Black Rooster) abound; and if you aren’t familiar with the legend of the black rooster click here. A few kilometers south of the village of Gaiole in Chianti, perched on a hilltop, was our destination, Cantalici, Società Agricola L’Antica Fornace di Ridolfo.
I was immediately struck by the 360-degree panoramic views of the Tuscan hills and valleys, spotted with medieval castles and lined with cypress trees. Carlo Cantalici and Angela Butini greeted us warmly and proceeded to tour us through their historic cantina. The original building on the property was a medieval kiln that dates back to 1583. The oldest documentation identifies the building as “Fornace di Ridolfo Zati”, a member of a wealthy Florentine family at that time.
Loris Cantalici purchased the property in 1972; and, along with sons, Carlo and Daniele, have not only restored and preserved the historic ruins, but also built a beautiful wine production facility adjacent to the “Fornace”. Carlo and Angela spent the afternoon with us, sharing their wines, family history, love for their land, and philosophy of winemaking. Our merchant team quickly realized our search for a Chianti Classico was over. Carlo and Daniele’s wines deliver a tasting experience that embodies the essence of this historic district. The Cantalici’s vineyards cover 90 hectares where they cultivate Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malvasia and Trebbiano varieties.
The Chianti Classico Baruffo and Baruffo Riserva deliver a distinctive uniqueness and boldness found only in the Chianti varietals from this zone. And, for the “Super Tuscan lover”, I have one word for you—Tangano! This Toscana IGT is “in your face” with fruit, spice, and rich currant flavors. We are very proud to add the Cantalici Family wines to our rich collection of exceptional Italian wines. Look for Cantalici wines to be available to our clients in November. And, don’t forget to look for the Gallo Nero on every bottle!
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Discovering Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo was one of my most pleasant surprises while exploring the Abruzzo region. My experience with California rosès has not been memorable; but don’t even attempt to compare this juice to any of the California rosè wines. If you approach this wine expecting a light, timidly sweet wine, you will be in for a big surprise. This is a rosè with some depth and muscle. I went to the region with great anticipation of finding the big red Montepulciano, and left in love with both the powerful red and its rosato relative.
Corrado De Angelis Corvi’s Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is produced from the same vineyards that bring us his flagship Montepulciano d’Abruzzo “Elevito”. This rosato shares the same body, structure, and acidity as its parent Montepulciano red. Corrado selects the ripest of fruit in the last week in September when the fruit brings enhanced complexity, flavor and acidity to the wine. After a very brief maceration on the skins, approximately 4 hours, the juice is fermented at very low temperatures to bring out the most complexity and flavor from the fruit. You are immediately struck by the brilliant salmon red color in the glass. The nose hints of berries and then lands firmly on your palate with crisp, rich cherry, strawberry and raspberry notes and a bold fruit finish.
Corrado’s Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is a very versatile wine that complements and enhances a wide variety of foods including summer soups, fish, shellfish, risotto, and white meats. Enjoy with appetizers of fresh berries and light cheeses. This is a fantastic wine to serve at your summer BBQ of grilled chicken, oysters, or vegetables. If you are looking for a wine to take to the beach or picnic, don’t look any further. For maximum enjoyment, serve this wine very chilled at 45-50 degrees.
Fire up the BBQ and enjoy!
]]>Through the assistance and generosity of my friends and acquaintances in the industry, I was able to present Matteo with a wide range of experiences our region has to offer. He toured the production facility of a large winery that produces millions of bottles a year, so he could compare them to the methods of his family winery that produces 40,000. He met a Sonoma winemaker of relatively similar size to his, and exchanged their knowledge and experiences. And, he experienced a personal tour of the unique, biodynamic farming methods used by a very successful grower and winemaker in the Sonoma Valley, which are not seen widely in the Sonoma wine country or the Piemonte region of Italy. While each day’s experiences varied, Matteo’s comment, as each day came to an end was always the same, “This was the most amazing day.”
While Matteo studied the wines of Europe, he had never tasted California juice. So, we tasted our way through the Sonoma Valley, with a few excursions through the Dry Creek and Alexander valleys. The objective was to sample the diversity of wines available in the region including Sav Blanc, Chardonnay, Vignone, Pinot Noir, Cab Sav, Merlot, Cab Franc, Zin, Petite Sirah, Syrah, and a spectrum of blends. A stop at a winery producing a wine from an Italian varietal, and yes there are several in Sonoma County, always led to an in-depth discussion and prolonged visit. But it was Barbera that emerged as the common denominator, the international bond and universal language between Matteo and the local winemakers. While they shared their experiences working with this ancient varietal, there was common agreement around how and why the Barbera wines from Sonoma, Barbera d’ Alba, and Barbera d’Asti were dramatically different due to the terroir, climates, soils, and production methods. I was the attentive student for these in-depth discussions, and here is a summary of their sometimes passionate opinions.
Sonoma Barbera is a new world wine that tends to have good acidity that produces and hold bright color in the wine. The acidity also leads to zesty, astringent notes along with spice, blackberries, and greener tannins. The warm growing climate ripens the fruit fast, and sugar levels can climb quickly leading to higher alcohol.
Barbera is native of the Piemonte region. It is the 1st most planted variety in Piemonte and the 6th most planted variety in Italy (Source: Italian Wine Central). Barbera d’ Alba is grown in the cool climate of the Barbaresco, where the fruit ripens more slowly, and alcohol levels tend to be below 14%. This old world wine tends to be soft and velvety in the mouth with aromas of blackberry and anise on the nose, and then lands on the palate with notes of cherry, black currants, chocolate and soft tannins. The wine is softer and more elegant than its cousin a few kilometers north in Asti.
I write this as Matteo’s month long journey is coming to an end. I can’t let him leave without capturing his most memorable impressions and opinions of the past several weeks. Using a mixture of Italian and much-improved English, Matteo expressed his surprise at the diversity of the varietals grown in California, the immense size of the large production facilities, and the importance placed on branding, packaging, and marketing in the U.S. He shared his perception that California Pinot Noir was similar in style to the Barbaresco wines from Piemonte. He was quick to notice the extensive irrigation systems utilized in the California vineyards, as irrigation systems are neither employed nor permitted in is region. Finally, and with a great deal of emotion, he expressed his gratitude for the immense generosity and hospitality shown him by all the winemakers he met. He felt a common bond with each.
I would like to acknowledge with great appreciation the following friends for their kindness and generosity with their time and knowledge: Chris Silva of St. Francis Winery, Chris Benziger of Benziger Family Wines, and Phil Staehle of Enkidu.
Featured Wine: 2010 Fontanabianca Barbera d’Alba DOC Superiore Variety: 100% Barbera Alcohol: 14% Tasting Notes: rich, fruity aromas of ripe berries, plum and cherry give way to lucious fruit landing on the palate with plum red currant and black cherry. Velvety soft in the mouth and a rich, long finish. Pairing Suggestions: Roasted red meats, ripe cheeses |
Our gratitude and holiday cheers go to all of our customers who have followed our journey, and to our new friends and families in Italy. We have created memories together that will last a lifetime! May you all have a safe and peaceful holiday season!
-The Chigazola Family
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The Corsi Family at Le Marognole
By Eleonora Corsi
“Christmas at Le Marognole Winery, with the Corsi’s family, starts with preparation from the 24th December: this is the day that we dedicate to prepare everything for the Holy Day. The whole family is reunited and everybody has his own task for the success of the lunch.
Everything is hand-made: somebody prepares the starters, some other the pie with ragout. Someone cares for the broth (made with capon and with beef meat).
Then the broth is served with tortellini, and the capon is stuffed with a mix of breadcrumbs, garlic, parsley, capon livers, eggs, Parmesan, pepper and salt. The capon then is parched.
The beef-meat is served warm, accompanied by a “pearà sauce” (special sauce of Verona made of bread crumbs, broth, many pepper and cooked for long time) and with horseradish sauce, along with seasonal fresh and cooked vegetables. The typical desserts from Verona served by Christmas lunch are “nadalin” and “Pandoro”.
The whole lunch will be accompanied by Le Marognole wines, of course, starting with Classico for starters and first courses, and passing to Ripasso, “el Nane”, and Amarone for the second courses. Nadalin and Pandoro are enjoyed by drinking Recioto. And at the evening it starts again for dinner with Risotto all’Amarone and the meat that has been leftover at lunch!
Buon Natale e Buon Appetito”...Eleonora & Fabio Corsi
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The Pola and Bruno Families at Fontanabianca
By Luisella Pola (translated from Italian)
“On Christmas Eve we are with our families to unwrap the presents and exchange greetings. The following day, December 25th, we find ourselves again with the family to have lunch together. The Christmas typical Piedmontese menu is Agnolotti [a type of ravioli from the Piemonte], Brasato al Barbaresco [pot roast cooked in Barbaresco wine], bunet [typical sweet, chocolate pudding with hazelnuts] and seasonal fruit. [Each course] is matched [Fontanabianca] red wines Barbera D’Alba, Nebbiolo and Barbaresco “Bordini”, of course. It's a day of rest and family togetherness. After lunch it is our habit to play bingo or cards.
Salutì,
Luisella” (Left to right, Luisella & Aldo Pola, Stefania Ferro, Bruno Ferro)
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The Corvi Family at De Angelis Corvi
By Corrado De Angelis Corvi (translated from Italian)
“We gladly [share] our Christmas traditions that are about to come; and on this occasion, I express to you and your family best wishes also from mine. The anniversary is being felt on the eve of Christmas, the evening of the 24th, we meet at home with our closest relatives, we make “una cena di magro strettissima” [a"light" dinner], (i.e. without meat), spaghetti with tuna and olives, salt cod all'ascolana (with raisins and pine nuts), boiled or fried fish, with some small sweets, [paired with] wine, strictly Trebbiano d'Abruzzo. Then after a short prayer before the “presepio” [Nativity scene], with the kids each holding a candle, we all go to Midnight Mass at the Cathedral of Ascoli. The next day, December 25th, as soon as we awake, we exchange large and small gifts around the tree. Then we go to our own country house, for lunch, always with the family. [Food] abounds a bit too much, such as Cappelletti in brood [meat filled pasta in broth], “timballo di all'ascolana’ [pasta], “olive fritte allascolana” [fried olives of Ascoli], other types of fried, “arrosto di tacchino” [roasted turkey], desserts of all kinds, and [paired with] the wines Cerasuolo and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, all in great serenity. The afternoon pastime for all is bingo that we play at home with the same folders and numbers that was used by our ancestors in [the year] 800. To you and your family the most sincere wishes for the upcoming holidays.
Cari Salutì,
Corrado”
I have been very fortunate to have met 10 marvelous winemaking families from 6 very different wine regions of Italy. It is with great pride that I am able to offer their wines to you for your enjoyment with your holiday festivities. On behalf of their families and mine, Buon Natale and Buon Anno!
-Cin cin!
If you are serving... We recommend pairing with...
Aperitifs and Appetizers (Aperitivi, Antipasti)
First Course (Primo)
Second Course (Secondo)
Fruit & Cheese (Formaggi e Frutta)
Dessert (Dolce)
We are very excited to welcome 3 new producers, (Sobrero, Fontanabianca, and De Angelis Corvi), to our family along with their exceptional wines. Our first shipment focused on classic wines from the Veneto region. These new arrivals represent classic native Italian varietals from the Piemonte (Barolo, Barbaresco) and Abruzzo (Montepulciano) regions, including our first whites (Arneis, Trebbiano) and a rosé (Cerasuolo). I suspect many of our followers will be unfamiliar with these wines, which is fine. Understanding wine is about continual learning; so don’t feel unworldly. It would be easy to write a page of descriptions on each wine, but I will attempt to summarize the characteristics of each and provide just enough of a description to peak your interest in trying these wines. Andiamo! (Let’s go!)
2006 Barolo Riserva Pernanno
Region: Piemonte Zone: DOCG Barolo
Varietal: Nebbiolo Style: Dry Red, Full Body
2006 was an exceptional vintage for this commune. This is a powerful, concentrated Barolo with bold fruit and exceptional balance. Appreciate it now, or cellar it 15-20 years. A great addition to a collector’s cellar. WS 92 Points
Give this wine a try if you like: a big California Cab.
2007 was a warmer growing season and produced a more easy-going and approachable Barolo with good fruit on the palate and a velvety finish. Very approachable now, but best in 5-10 years.
Give this wine a try if you like: California Cabs.
2012 Dolcetto d’Alba
Region: Piemonte Zone: DOC Alba
Varietal: Dolcetto Style: Dry Red, Medium-body
“The Little Sweet One”, a brightly colored red that is meant to be enjoyed right away and not aged. This is a “daily” wine with nice fruit and soft tannins. Drink it now.
Give this wine a try if you like: California Merlot
2012 Moscato d’Asti
Region: Piemonte Zone: DOCG Asti
Varietal: Moscato Style: Slightly sweet white
An effervescent white with a straw yellow color, floral nose with fresh fruits, apple and pear on the palate, and a slightly sweet finish. Drink as an aperitif or with dessert.
Give this wine a try if you like: Sweet Riesling.
2009 Barbaresco “Bordini”
Region: Piemonte Zone: DOCG Barbaresco
Varietal: Nebbiolo Style: Dry Red, Full-Bodied
A full-bodied, complex red from the Bordini cru brings intense floral perfume to the nose, red currents and plum to the palate, and a long elegant, spicy finish. Appreciate it now, or cellar for 15-20 years. WS 93 Points.
Give this wine a try if you like: Full-bodied Pinot Noir.
2010 Barbera d’Alba
Region: Piemonte Zone: DOC Barbaresc
Varietal: Barbera Style: Dry Red, Full-bodied
A full-bodied red that is complex, with fruity aromas, and delivers luscious plum, red currant and black cherry on the palate, and soft tannins on the finish. Enjoy it now.
Give this wine a try if you like: California Merlot.
2012 Langhe Arneis
Region: Piemonte Zone: DOC Barbaresco
Varietal: Arneis Style: Dry white, medium-bodied
A medium-bodied white that delivers a floral bouquet of fresh fruit on the nose, and a crisp, clean finish with hints of lemon. Enjoy this now.
Give this wine a try if you like: un-oaked Chardonnays.
2008 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo “Elevito”
Region: Abuzzo Zone: DOCG Colline Teramane
Varietal: Montepulciano Style: Dry Red, full-bodied
A big red with intensely dark ruby red color, complex aromas of ripe berries and spices, and a velvety soft landing on the palate with rich, ripe fruit flavors. Excellent now, but you can cellar this one 10-15 years.
Give this wine a try if you like: a big, California Merlot.
2012 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
Region: Abruzzo Zone: DOC Superiore
Varietals: Trebbiano, Malvasia, Paserina
Style: Dry white
A medium-bodied white with straw yellow and golden hues that delivers floral and ripe apple notes to the nose. Balanced acidity allows for a soft, fruity landing on the palate with a clean finish. Enjoy now.
Give this wine a try if you like: un-oaked Chardonnay
2012 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo
Region: Abruzzo Zone: DOC Superiore
Varietal: Montepulciano Style:Dry Rosé
A light-bodied rose with intense red cherry color that delivers delicate and elegant hints of berries on the nose, and rich fruit flavors on the palate. Enjoy now.
Give this wine a try if you like: a California Syrah Rosé.
]]>It’s early October, and it’s vendemmia, (harvest)! The whites (Arneis) are already in and well into maceration. The Dolcetto (little sweet one) and Barbera harvests have begun, but the “King”, Nebbiolo, continues to hang and will likely continue for one to two weeks longer. The winemakers assure me that this is normal for Nebbiolo, and one must be patient. This October is dropping some light rain on the vineyards, and as long as it doesn’t persist, no one seems concerned about muffa (mildew).
Barolo is referred to as both the King of Wines and the Wine of Kings. There are eleven communes that comprise the DOCG, but only five are included in the original communes from 1980 when the region was promoted to DOCG status—Barolo and La Morra in the Central Valley, and Monforte d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto, and Serralunga d’Alba in the Serralunga Valley. These are two adjacent vinicultural zones with significantly different soil types and microclimates that produce wines of significantly different characteristics. The Helvetian soils in the Serralunga Valley with its relatively high composition of limestone produces wines that are concentrated, powerful, rich and full-bodied. In contrast, the Tortonian soils in the Central Valley are a mix of clay and sand and produce wines that are aromatic, lighter bodied, and considered more approachable when young. The wine characteristics between these five subzones, or communes can even be differentiated further, and if you want to dive deeper on your own, search Ratti’s 1979 sub region classification. I recommend you research while enjoying your favorite glass of Nebbiolo. Blending fruit from the five communes was common until the 1960’s when winemakers shifted to production of single vineyard crus. Today you will find reference to forty different crus in Barolo, each known for its unique characteristics.
We met the family at Sobrero Francesco of Castiglione Falletto in March of 2013 and were immediately taken by their 2006 and 2007 Barolo Riserva from their “Pernanno” vineyard with their bold, generous fruit, velvety texture, and lasting complex finishes. The winery was started in the 60’s by Francesco Sobrero and is now operated by his grandchildren Flavio (winemaker), Francesca and Federica. Flavio does an excellent job of blending traditional Barolo methods with modern technologies. And, you are not going to experience better views than at their agriturismo Casa Sobrero.
The hilltop village of Castiglione Falletto is as welcoming as it is historic. We enjoyed exceptional regional cuisine by Angelo and Maria Cristina at Le Torri Ristorante and Andrea Valentina’s cucina at Locanda Del Centro. We always enjoy a cafè or glass of wine and talking to the locals at the Bar La Terrazza “da Renza” and enjoying the view.
Drive minutes north from the Barolo on A33 and you are in the Barbaresco. If Barolo is The King, then Barbaresco is the Queen. While both wines are 100% Nebbiolo, their similarities stop there. This is where Nebbiolo demonstrates its ability to produce wildly different characteristics based on soils and microclimates. The Barbaresco is subject to slightly higher temperatures than its neighbor. And indeed, the Nebbiolo in Barbaresco matures earlier, is harvested earlier, and delivers wines that are more aromatic, perfumed and delicate.
We first met Luisella Pola at Fontanabianca in Neive during our visit in March 2013 and were quickly won over by their flagship Barbaresco “Bordini”. We returned again this trip to spend time with the two families who share a long history together producing fine Barbaresco wines. Aldo Pola and Bruno Ferro, along with their wives, Luisella and Mariangela and daughter Stefania, carry on the traditions of their fathers Franco Pola and Ottavio Ferro who began making wine in 1969. Their Bordini cru in the heart of the DOCG, faces southwest, and directly faces the historic hill town of Neive. It has consistently produced rich, elegant and beautifully complex Barbaresco. The village of Neive is both inviting and enchanting. Aldo and Bruno hosted us for an afternoon of dining at La Luna nel Pozzo where we were treated with pairings of fresh, local dishes and Fontanabianca Arneis, Barbera, and Barbaresco wines. Magnifico!
Our favorites from Sobrero Francesco and Fontanabianca are on their way to Northern California. Look for them on our website by mid October.
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Village: Castiglione Falletto
Appellation: Barolo
Region: Piedmont
Drive 163 km southwest of Milan and you will find Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of the Barolo. We met the Sobrero family on a cold March day, as the vineyards were receiving a dusting of pre-spring snow. Francesco Sobrero, grandfather of the current winemaker Flavio Sobrero, established the winery in 1940. Flavio and sisters, Francesca and Federica, carry on their grandfather’s tradition of producing a number of classic varietal wines from the Langhe sub-region in the Piedmont region. We have chosen to bring their Barolo Riserva “Pernanno”, Dolcetto d’Alba, and Moscato d’Asti over on this boat. Read more at www.sobrerofrancesco.it.
Fontanabianca
Village: Neive
Appellation: Barbaresco
Region: Piedmont
The Langhe is a wonderland of great Italian varietals. You need only drive 23 km northeast from the Barolo, and you are in the heart of the Barbaresco. We found Fontanabianca on a hillside near the picturesque village of Neive, where Aldo Pola and Bruno Ferro carry on the winemaking tradition of their fathers who founded the winery in 1969. Aldo and Bruno produce handcrafted wines that brilliantly capture the perfumes and elegance that is unique to this classic Italian terroir. This shipment will include their Barbaresco “Bordini”, Barbera d’Alba, and Langhe Arneis. Read more at www.fontanabianca.it.
De Angelis Corvi
Village: Controguerra
Appellation: Colline Teramane
Region: Abruzzo
I will always have fond memories of our expedition to the fabulous Abruzzo region (July 14 wine blog), and our meeting with Corrado De Angelis Corvi at his cantina outside the village of Controguerra. The rolling hills around Teramo, set against a backdrop of the Apennines to the west and the turquoise Adriatic to the east is nothing short of spectacular. It’s a grand stage for the vineyards of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Corrado has masterfully captured all the best characteristics of this noble terroir in his wines. We are very excited to introduce you to his Montepulciano d’Abruzzo “Elevito”, named after his parents Elenora and Vito, along with the classics Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. Read more at www.deangeliscorvi.it.
We feel very fortunate to have completed 2 expeditions in 3 months, added 9 wines and 3 producers to our family, visited 2 new regions, developed lifelong friendships with new families, tasted more great wines than I can count, and created many priceless memories.
I expect the new wines to be available at the end of September. Here’s hoping for favorable winds and calm seas! Cin cin!
Chi cerca trova….Seek and you shall find.
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Did I mention the wines are fabulous? Shortly after checking into basecamp Chiola in the afternoon, we wandered a few cobblestones away to Ristorante Convivio where owner Adrianno reopened just for us and then proceeded to cook us a fantastic lunch (pranzo). I get some of my best wine recommendations from locals, and Adrianno was a rich source of advice and stories. He described how we were staying just a few steps away from the famous Montepulciano winemaker Valentini, who can count the Pope among his customers. And then there was Emidio Pepe who is legendary for producing wines that are all natural and “biologica” (biodynamic) to the point of crushing the grapes with bare feet. To pair with our lunch, I asked Adrianno for a recommendation from his cellar, and he quickly (and appropriately) asked, “What’s your budget?” I quickly replied that it was something far below that of the Vatican. He brought us a 2008 Masciarelli, and it was delicious. We tasted over a dozen different Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines over the nine days in Italy, and I soon came to realize that you can universally describe them as “floral and spicy on the nose, big and round in the mouth, with silky-soft tannins on the finish”. The low acidity, big fruit, and soft tannins make these friendly reds that pair easily with a wide range of foods.
As we met with producers over the days that followed, we came to love the other great wines from the region including Pecorino, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. The region’s proximity to the Adriatic means a rich choice of fresh seafood, which pairs well with the clean, crisp finish of the Trebbiano and the refreshing taste of the Cerasuolo. One of our best surprises was meeting Nicola Jasci of Jasci & Marchesani (Vasto) and tasting his Riesling. Italian Riesling? It’s absolutely delicious! Nicola’s Pecorino equally impressed and paired very well with our fresh fish lunch. Nicola’s mastery of his vineyards just west of the town was evident in his wines.
Seventy-six kilometers north of our base at Loreto Aprutino is the small town of Controguerra. The majority of the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is D.O.C. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata); however Controguerra is located in a very small area known as Colline Teramane that was established in 1995 and promoted to D.O.C.G. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) in 2003.
It was here, a few kilometers outside of Controguerra that we met Corrado De Anglis Corvi, a noble man whose passion for his craft speaks to you the moment you shake his hand. As we walked his hillside vineyards of Montepulciano and Trebbiano vines, it was clear that his passion was deeply rooted with his reverence for the land. Corrado’s wines epitomize the best qualities and characteristics of what can be borne from this idyllic land and climate. His Montepulciano d’Abruzzo introduces itself with a big, floral and spicy nose. It lands on the palate with big, luscious fruit, and delivers a silky soft (morbido) finish that seems to go on and on. As big as this wine delivers, it is very friendly and approachable. The soft tannins and low acidity allow for a soft landing and smooth finish.
My images of the Abruzzo will include the incredibly diverse terrain, with its snow capped mountain tops, rolling hills of vineyards and orchards, and sandy beaches that are continually washed by the warm, turquoise waters of the Adriatic.
I will try to hold on, as long as possible, to the memories of the delicious local flavors our palates experienced while our eyes were drawn to ancient castles in hilltop towns and on cliffs overlooking the Adriatic, such as Castello Aragonese in Ortona. And, of course, I will remember the friendly, gracious people we met and hope to meet again soon. Their warmth and hospitality will live on in our stories. I am grateful to Leonardo, the General Manager of the Castello Chiola, for sharing a bottle (bottiglia) of Emedio Pepe Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from his personal cellar. Molto grazie per la vostra ospitalita!
Oh, did I mention the wines are fabulous?
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Join us for a four-course tasting menu featuring authentic specialties from Veneto.
Veneto is one of Italy’s northernmost regions, lying along the coast of the Adriatic sea. Its cooking has exotic and exciting influences from around the world. From seafood and livestock to produce, the Veneto cuisine is widely varied. Radicchio rosso, for example, is prized for its use in rice dishes, grilled as a vegetable, cooked into soups or eaten raw in salads.
Each course is paired with exclusive, handcrafted, native varietal wines from premier producers in the region including Paolo Zucchetto Prosecco from Valdobbiandene, and Fabio Corsi's Valpolicella of Le Marognole.
All wines are imported by Chigazola Merchants of Santa Rosa, and are presented by Ca'Bianca sommelier, Alessandra Diana.
Chigazola Merchants will also be present to answer any questions about these exceptional wines and the producers' heritage of making fine wines.
We haven’t left Sonoma wine country yet, but I already have an appointment with a producer in Vasto. I checked the winery bio, Italian reviews and press. Looks perfect. It helps to have a network of industry professionals in Italy who understand my passion and mission - to identify producers who craft exceptional wines from native varietals and have a long family history of growers and winemakers. I have started my research on the region, and I become more intrigued with every website I visit. The region’s history is rich with conquerors and emperors throughout ancient times waging war to rule the land. The Abruzzo region has expansive vineyards, hill towns, white sandy beaches, and, of course, the Apennines. (Stop! You had me at vineyards.)
There are three DOC wines in the region (Contro Guerra, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo) and one DOCG (Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane). The region is most known for Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. This big red is crafted primarily from the Montepulciano grape, although DOC regulations permit up to 15% Sangiovese. It is typically a dark, deeply violet colored wine, with low to moderate acidity, and characteristically soft tannins. While I am primarily looking for the red, I’m also looking forward to experiencing the whites in the region—Pecorino (no, not related to the cheese) and Trebbiano.
Andiamo! (Let’s go!) For those friends who may be interested, you can follow us on our expedition on our facebook page: www.facebook.com/ChigazolaMerchants.
]]>However, on this hot afternoon I want that bone dry, clean finish that the Puro-Fol delivers. The “pure what”? Follo, (or Fol as the locals call it) is a picturesque little town in the heart of the Prosecco region (Valdobbiadene County). Paolo Zucchetto’s Brut is a single vineyard designate sparkling wine, so pure follo grapes, or Puro-Fol. Winemaker Carlo has crafted this brut in the “zero dosage”, or zero sugar, style. Doesn’t get any drier than this! The mouth is fresh fruit with a nice acidity that delivers a crisp, clean finish. We decided to enjoy this in the shade of the back deck watching the afternoon sun begin to set. Slice up some chilled pears, strawberries, apples or your favorite fruit du jour, and you have what I would call a pretty good afternoon.
]]>Get ready! This is where it gets interesting. The skins (lees) from the Amarone are reintroduced to the Valpolicella, and the wine undergoes a second fermentation, hence the term Ripasso, which means to “review” or “pass again”. The result is sweet cherry flavors of the Valpolicella with the firmness and complexity of the Amarone. You can see why this wine is sometimes referred to as a "baby Amarone".
While the exact origin of the ripasso style of winemaking is unclear, I have found references that date this "appassimento" method (drying grapes prior to pressing) back to ancient Greek and Roman times. What is clear is that this style of winemaking produces a truly unique and complex wine unlike any other.
Our Valpolicella producer, Fabio Corsi, has crafted an amazing Ripasso. I tasted it for the first time in Fabio’s cellar in Valgatara. My son, Tony, was along for this search; and on this day we were previewing all five of Fabio’s wines. In full disclosure, we had just toured his ancient, 16th century underground stone cellar where I imagined all the great wines aging over the centuries.
Ok, this may have influenced my tasting experience. After all, context makes a big difference when experiencing wine. We had started with Fabio’s Valpolicella Classico. It was just that—classic, with great cherry flavors balanced with soft, barely noticeable tannins Next, we moved to the Ripasso; and the moment Fabio poured it in my glass, the color grabbed my attention. Tony and I swirled, sipped, and swallowed at about the same time. We turned and looked at each other; and without uttering a sound, our eyes said it best, “We must have this wine!” My next thoughts went right to the Amarone. If the Ripasso was this fabulous, then the parent Amarone must be….! Let me give you a preview. It didn’t disappoint, but I will save that for another post.
We are very proud to be the exclusive importer and distributor of Paolo Zucchetto Cartizze in the U.S. Winemaker Carlo Zucchetto has created an exceptional cru from the 2012 fruit that was harvested on September 15, 2012, and released on February 15, 2013. It is extremely well balanced; and the finish? Well, "simply elegant." We hope you enjoy!
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Land and Family -
As we travel the backroads of Italy's wine regions and meet the winemakers of the classic, ancient Italian varietal wines, we are deeply touched by their commitment to their land and their families. It is clear to us that it is not just about the wine, but also the land (la terra) and the family (la famiglia). Our mission is to bring you exceptional Italian wines, and connect you to the winemakers, their wines, their lands, and their families. Explore "Our Producers" and watch a video interview with the winemaker. Meet the families that have been growing and producing for generations, and read about their family histories.
Enjoy Wines of the Veneto Region -
Coming Soon- Wines of the Barolo! -
Eight wines from two producers in the Veneto are included in this shipment. We are excited to offer you three different Prosecco wines from Paolo Zucchetto--a Brut, an Extra Dry, and the famed Cartizze. We are also very excited to introduce for the first time in the US, five Valpolicella wines from winemaker Fabio Corsi at LeMarognole--Valpolicella Classico, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto, and the "El Nane" Rosso Verona. These are fabulously rich and complex Valpolicella wines! Click on "Our Wines" at the top navigation bar to read about each wine.
Since we focus on small producers, this shipment will consist of very limited quantities.
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